Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Cafe de Paris Butter



This is a "compound" butter, meaning that it is not just butter, but a compound or mixture of butter with herbs and spices.  They're fairly common and can be quite simple.  This one is not simple, but it is probably the best.  You encounter it abroad, in Australia, but never here in the U.S.  It is worth it. 

I've included the recipe for Maitre d'Hotel Butter in the New Orleans Barbequed Shrimp recipe.  You can just mix a few herbs into softened butter and it's likely to be pretty good.  Melted on steaks, chicken, chops, in pasta, or when a sauce you've made needs a little enrichment.


  • 2 lbs butter
  • 4 1/2 ounces  French Shallots
  • 4 1/2 ounces  onions
  • 3/4 cup white wine
  • 1 3/4 ounces  anchovy fillets (drained)
  • 1 tbsp  minced garlic
  • 1 3/4 cup parsley
  • 1/3 ounce sage
  • 2/3 ounce fresh tarragon
  • 1 teaspoon  marjoram
  • 1 teaspoon thyme
  • 3/4 tbsp English mustard
  • 2 teaspoons curry
  • 2 teaspoons paprika
  • 4 teaspoons salt
  • 3/4 teaspoon white pepper
  • 3 1/3 tbsp lemon juice
  • 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce


    1. Finely chop onion and schallots.
    2. Make them reduce along with white wine.
    3. Mix with garlic, anchovies and all herbs.
    4. Link all these ingredients with melted butter.
    5. Mix quickly to make it foam.
    6. Book in air-proof containers – or plastic wraps -  and keep in the fridge
    If fresh herbs and spices are not available, you can use of dried ones with taking care of reducing their amount.
    The english mustard can be replaced by any type of mustard.
    Butter made with fresh herbs sustains a shorter time.

    Tips:

    If you freeze compound butter, do it in small portions that will allow you to dose more easily and to limit losses since like any other frozen product, it should not be refrozen.

    Café de Paris Butter is recommended to accompany grilled meat and fish.
    In the end, you can drop some compound butter in a deglazed sauce for example, or spread on croutons… You can use this tasty homemade butter directly on toasts too.

    Monday, February 20, 2012

    Watermelon Feta Cheese Salad

    1 (5-pound) seedless watermelon
    1 Vidalia or red onion, see note please
    1/4 cup vinegar
    Salt and pepper
    1/2 cup olive oil
    2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
    4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
    6 whole mint sprigs

    Cut the flesh from the melon and cut into bite size pieces, removing and discarding the seeds, and set aside. Peel and slice the onion into rings.  NOTE.  If it's a big onion I don't like onion spaghetti in my salad.  Cut it into quarters and slice paper-thin.

    In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, salt, pepper, and whisk until salt is dissolved. Slowly whisk in the olive oil, a few drops at a time.

    Add in the chopped mint, taste, and adjust seasonings.
    In a large bowl, combine the melon, onion, and feta. Pour the dressing over the melon mixture and toss gently until everything is coated and evenly mixed. Garnish with mint sprigs.

    To serve, divide salad among individual plates and garnish with mint leaves.

    Horseradish, Dill Pickle Potato Salad



    For Aspiring Good Cooks. Never cool your boiled potatoes in cold water, either running or still. Spread them out on a sheet pan while hot and allow them to cool naturally before peeling. If they are warm, so much the better. Warm potatoes will soak up the flavor, of added ingredients-hot ones repel it. 

    I do not peel mine, some people do.  If you do, wait until they are at room temperature. By the way, it's a lot more trouble to peel potatoes before you boil them.  They have a tendency to be watery if you peel them beforehand.  You can also use differently colored potatoes for added visual interest.

    3 pounds small (2-inch) potatoes
    1/4 cup red onion, chopped
    1 tablespoon vinegar
    1 cup sour cream (or 1/2 cup sour cream, 1/2 cup mayonnaise)
    2 tablespoons fresh dill, finely chopped
    1/4 cup chopped fresh chives (frustratingly, couldn’t find these)
    1 tablespoon Dijon or Creole mustard
    3 tablespoons prepared horseradish
    1 teaspoon salt
    1/2 teaspoon black pepper
    1/4 cup chopped dill pickles chopped

    Boil the potatoes until fork tender, cool them to room temperature and quarter them. In a large bowl, mix the remaining ingredients and fold over the potatoes. Adjust seasoning to taste — you might add another tablespoon of vinegar if you feel it needs more of a top note.

    Shrimp Mousse


    2 cups plain yogurt, room temperature
    1 pound cream cheese, room temperature
    1 cup mayonnaise, room temperature
    6 cups boiled, chopped shrimp
    2 Tablespoons Knox Unflavored Gelatin
    juice of 2 lemons mixed with 1/4 cup cold water
    ½ cup finely minced green onion
    ½ cup finely minced celery
    ½ cup finely minced red bell pepper
    1/4 cup minced pimientos
    ½ cup salsa picante (fresh or boughten)
    ½ tsp. Crystal Hot Sauce
    1 Tbsp. Lea and Perrins

    Mix together the yogurt, cream cheese, and mayonnaise. Fold in the shrimp. Dissolve the gelatin in the lemon juice and cold water, and heat in the top of a double for 5 minutes, stirring.

    Fold the gelatin mixture into the cheese/shrimp mixture. Gently add the minced vegetables and seasonings, blending well. Adjust the seasonings. Pour into a 2-quart mold and refrigerate overnight before serving.

    Salmon Rillettes

    Truly inspiring. Just make sure the rest of the meal is as good as the appetizer.

    8 ounce  piece of salmon, preferably wild, bones removed
    salt
    5 tablespoons  butter
    1 tablespoon olive oil
    1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice
    2 tablespoons chopped chives
    4 ounces smoked salmon, cut into thin strips, then cut into ½-inch  pieces
    ¼ teaspoon chili powder


    Season the salmon on both sides lightly with a bit of salt. Put on a plate with a Tablespoon of water, cover with plastic wrap and microwave about 4 minutes, until it flakes easily.

    In a medium-sized bowl, mash together with a fork the butter and the olive oil until very smooth; otherwise there’ll be big chunks of butter in the finished rillettes.

    Stir in the lemon juice, then the chopped chives and smoked salmon.

    Remove the skin from the salmon (if it has any) and flake the cooked salmon over the mixture, then fold the pieces of salmon into the rillette mixture along with the chili powder.

    Season with salt, if necessary.

    Scrape into a serving dish, cover, and chill for at least two hours. Let come to room temperature before serving.

    Storage: The rillettes can be made up to two days before and refrigerated. They can also be frozen, well-wrapped, for up to two months.

    Chicken Liver Pate




    1 medium onion, chopped
    1 clove garlic, chopped
    2 eggs
    1 lb. chicken livers
    ¼ c. flour
    ½ tsp. ginger
    ½ tsp. allspice
    1 tsp. salt
    1 tsp. white pepper
    2 c. butter
    ½ c. heavy cream-Plus 2 T. Brandy if you like

    Combine onion, garlic and eggs in a blender at high speed for 1 minute. Add livers and blend 2 minutes. Add flour and remaining ingredients and blend until smooth. Pour into well-greased 1 quart baking dish and cover with plastic wrap, then with foil. Set in pan of hot water and bake for three hours at 325 degrees. Remove foil and plastic and allow to cool. Recover with plastic wrap and chill at least 4 hours or overnight. Serve on squares of pumpernickel.

    Fiesta Dip




    1 can black eyed peas
    1 red pepper diced 1 green pepper diced
    1 red onion diced


    Rinse and drain peas corn

    Add:
    2 tbs Tiger Sauce (in the sauce section of the market)3/4 cup white sugar (I used a little less)
    1/2 cup apple cider vinegar

    1/4 veg oil (I used about 3 Tbs instead of 4 Tbs)


    Mix and let stand overnight.

    Drain liquid before serving with tostito scoops This also works great as a salad topper/dressing.

    1 can shoe peg corn, can be any corn, or use 2 c. frozen corn